Coleman Cable 08660 Heavy-Duty



Coleman Cable 08660 Heavy-Duty 4-Gauge Auto Battery Booster Cables with Polar Glo-Watt Clamps (20 Feet)

Coleman Cable 08660 Heavy-Duty 4-Gauge Auto Battery Booster Cables with Polar Glo-Watt Clamps (20 Feet)








Tuesday, October 30, 2012

How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error

How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error


Got the Xbox 360 open tray error? Looking for a way to fix the problem so you can play your favourite games again with your friends? Well, you've basically got 2 ways to get problems like this fixed. You either send over your troubleshooting console to Microsoft, or you will actually repair the Xbox 360 open tray error yourself with the step by step help from a repair guide. But first,some tips that might help you to get rid of your problem.


http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8192/8121955478_5d8ee2182a_m.jpg

How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error


1) Restart your console.
2) Check for loose cables.
3) Pull out all the cables, and get them back in.
4) Take out the hard-drive, and put it back in. Repeat this 4 times.


Cables

How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error


Didn't work? Than you've got 2 options left.



How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error

How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error


Fix Xbox 360 Open Tray Error By Microsoft?

Alright, you may think that that this option is "Da Bomb!" Right? Well, let me tell you something. It's actually... The worse thing you could do.... You see, when you send your console over to Microsoft, you will have to pay 0. But to cheer you up... This is only needed if your warranty has been expired.

Another downside that shouldn't be ignored, are the waiting times. The waiting times are Horrible! You will have to wait between 2-6 weeks before you'll be able to get your console back.

Is it worth spending 0 and to wait for weeks to get your Xbox 360 open tray error fixed?

Fix Xbox 360 Open Tray Error By Myself With A Repair Guide? Are You Kidding Me?!

This option is actually the best that you've got. This is because it's cheap and fast. But, will you be able to actually fix the Xbox 360 open tray error by yourself? Well, the answer is... Of course you can! With the step by step instructions that's provided with a repair guide, anyone can do it!

How to Fix the Xbox 360 Open Tray Error






Thursday, September 27, 2012

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables


How to install your wiring, and make it a.) Invisible, or b.) Nice to look at:

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables


How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables



How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

Alrightee! So, you're off to installing all of the big-time components to your stereo system. I know you really really really want to skip the boring parts (like running wires), and go straight to installing the components, and turning on your system. Nnnnnno!

Like I have said countless times before, we're here to do a QUALITY stereo install. Not some janky, lame-o quickie job. We're installing a stereo for the life of your vehicle, and as such, we spend a little extra time to do things properly. Sooooo, when it comes to wiring, we need to think about how we want to do things first.

To re-cap. Do you know what components you'll be installing? Even if you don't have all of the components now, hopefully you know what your plans are. This allows you to run all of the wires, so when you finally get your components, you can just mount them, and hook up the wires, and you're ready to rock.

Don't be stupid like most people, and think of components first, THEN think about how to install them. Think of how to install components, get the install parts, THEN install the components. DUH!!! By the way, you'll save time and money with this approach.

Was that a long enough introduction? OK, let's get into what you should know about wiring!

First, buy all of the wiring that you think you'll need, and some extra just for safety. Don't worry, your money won't be wasted!

Next, disassemble your vehicle in the places where the wiring will be run. When I say disassemble, I mean it! Pull out seats, carpet, panels, everything! Trust me, this will make running wires easier and safer.

If you plan to use any sort of sound insulation or damping material, now is the time to lay it. If you don't plan on using it, why not? This will make your system sound better by lowering noise, and by eliminating vibrations. Just do it!

Now, you get to run wires. Run them everywhere they'll be needed. Run power wires, RCA wires, speaker wires, interface wires, remote turn on wires. EVERYTHING.

Now that they're laid out how you want and need them, it's time to secure them. Vehicle manufacturers use ties everywhere to keep wires organized and out of the way. Now it's your turn! Many many many people skip this step, and I don't think it's too smart.

Why?

Because when wires are subjected to vibrations, stress, weather, and other things that are constantly present in vehicles, they tend to wear away. When wires wear away, you get...

Short circuits!
Vehicle fires!
Ruined components!

Don't risk it, just secure your wires!

If you have amp racks or other items that your wiring will go through, it's time to mount those items, and secure the wiring to them.

OK, OK. Those are the basic steps you'll go through to run wires. But, how do you actually do it? Let's break it down:

1.) Measure distances between where components will be mounted, and what they connect to. For example, measure from the battery to where you'll mount your amp. Also, don't be stupid. Buy a few extra feet at each end, so you'll have room for error. Also, you'll want to make sure none of the wires are stretched. You want to have some slack at each end. This will make your life much easier.

Other distances to measure:

Head unit to amp

Amp to speakers

Head unit to cd/dvd changer, mp3 player, navigation system, etc.

Also, before you buy your wires, be sure you know what will work best with your planned components. If you're planning to install a 500 watt amp, and you know that amp will be 17' from the battery, use a chart to figure out what wire gauge to use. People like to get all loco in the cabeza with power wire, and spend a foot on 0 gauge wire. WHY??? If you don't need it, don't buy it!

2.) OK, so you have all of your wiring in hand, and ready to go. Now is the time to take apart parts of your vehicle. First, figure out where your wires will be run. I usually run my power wire on the same side of the vehicle as the battery. I also usually run my RCA cables down the center of the vehicle. Knowing this information will tell you where you need to remove parts from your vehicle. If you're not going to be running wires in a certain part of your vehicle, then it won't be necessary to take anything apart. UNLESS!! UNLESS!!! UNLESS!!!! You plan to put some sound damping material down. I always recommend this!

So, here we go. Time for the fun part. First things first. Disconnect the ground (aka negative) wire from the battery.

Pull up panels! I highly recommend some sort of panel removal tool to remove panels. This will help protect your panels from breaking.

3.) Time to run wires!

First, we'll run the power cable: Find a hole in the firewall of your vehicle. If you can't find a hole, you might be able to squeeze a power cable through the far corner of your hood, by the windshield and into your vehicle that way. If you can't do that, then you'll have to drill. Every car is different, but one piece of advice is always true: Plan ahead, and be careful! Inspect where you plan to drill the hole, and be sure you won't damage anything in the process. Take it slow, or if you're feeling really nervous, drive your vehicle to a stereo shop, and have them run your power wire through the firewall. Next, run the cable wherever it will fit nicely, and not be visible once you put the carpet back in place. Run it all the way to your trunk (or wherever you plan to have your amp or distribution blocks mounted). Next, secure the cable. Use zip ties, or glue, or even velcro to make sure your power cable stays where it should. Be sure it is not near any moving parts, or rubbing on anything that will strip the insulation. Also, be sure it will not get in the way of anything once you re-install all of the panels, carpet, etc.

Next, let's run your RCA cable(s), interface cables and Remote turn on wire. Again, be sure the negative cable is disconnected from the battery. Disassemble any and all of the panels surrounding your head unit. Pull your head unit out. Next, pull up all of the panels, consoles and carpet around where you'll be running your RCA cable and interface cable. Connect the remote turn-on wire to your head unit's wiring harness. If you are planning to connect more than one or two devices to your head unit's remote turn-on, you will want to look into installing a relay. Next, run the RCA cables, interface cable and remote turn-on. All of the stuff I said earlier about power cables is also true of RCA and interface cables. Be sure your cable is not near any moving parts, it is not rubbing against anything that will strip the insulation, and it is mounted in such a way that it will not show once the panels and carpet are put back in place. Connect the RCA cables to the pre-outs on your head unit, and be sure you know which RCA cable goes to which channel on your amp. Many RCA cables use color-coding, so it shouldn't be too difficult. Plug in your interface cable. Now, re-install your head unit. Make sure everything is all hooked up before you put everything back together!!

OK, last step. Let's run speaker wire! This is exactly like running all of the other wires above. Pull up the panels. Run the wires. Be mindful of where you plan to run them. Secure them. Make sure you have a few extra feet at each end of the speaker cable. I know this sounds stupid, but trust me. It's more stupid to spend all of this time running wire only to discover that it's too short. Then, you have to pull the wire up, throw it away, then run it all over again. DUMB!

4.) Secure wires!

Now that your wires are run, it's time to secure them. There are many ways to secure wires, and not all of them will work at all times. In fact, you'll probably need to use a variety of methods to secure your wires throughout your vehicle. Soooooo....

1.) Secure wires with zip ties to other bundles of wires.

2.) Secure wires with zip ties to small holes (or create small holes)

3.) Use glue to secure zip ties to your vehicle, then secure the wires with them.

4.) Run wires behind objects that they can be secured to.

5.) Use velcro to secure wires

5.) Secure wires to mounting locations (amp racks, speaker pods, etc)

If you have any sort of custom enclosure or rack for your stereo components, you'll want to find a way to secure your wires to the rack or enclosure. If these racks or enclosures are designed to be seen, you might want to take some time making the wires visible, and looking good.

In the example of amp racks, you can drill holes where all of the electrical connections go into the amp. Run the wires through these holes, and to your amp. This trick will make your wires look nice and clean, and keep your wires organized.

For speaker enclosures, there are a variety of things you can do to make the wires look good. For plexiglass subwoofer enclosures, people often choose wire that looks good. In addition, top installers will choose wire hardware (terminals) that are of high quality, and look good. If you want your enclosure to be removable, you can install speaker terminals on the outside of the enclosure, or even install a custom quick-release wiring harness.

Enjoy!
-Honest AEB

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

Friday, August 24, 2012

What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?

What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?


Taking a look back into the change of technology over the past ten years, it is hard to incorporate some of the new technology with old. Even though you bought a brand new TV that does not mean that everything going into it has to be updated as well. However, the cables that go into your components such as HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables may need some adjusting or updating.

What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?

What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?

What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?


What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?



What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?

HDMI cables have been one of the most quality improvements in regards to transporting audio and video. HDMI cables transmit sound and video digitally at the speed of light which requires no conversion to the video or audio coming through. Because of the way HDMI Cables keep the integrity of audio and video, they are consistently used for connecting DVD players, cable or satellite and music input through only one cable that is also interchangeable with many different kinds of converters and adapters. HDMI cables are your best bet for keeping the wire configurations to a minimum and getting the most out of it.

However, keep in mind that whatever is put into the HDMI Cable does not mean that it will be HD. So the image and sound of your BlueRay Player will not be the same as watching your 1984 home videos through it. The number of HDMI plug-ins on your television may be limited which would mean that you may have to pick and choose which devices take priority.

Component Cables are essentially video cables that are split up into three components. If you are looking to bring to life that 1984 old home video, than this may be what you need to help relive those memories without them becoming pixilated and or stretched. The name 'component cables' is derived from the fact that different signals are separated from each other in order to prevent interference with each other. Most component cables are split up by video and audio transmissions. The video transmissions are also separated further sometimes into color based transmissions which include S-Video, RGB and YPbPr.

Component Cables can run anywhere from a half foot to 50 feet in length. They are easy to plug in because most televisions have color coordinated plug-ins on multiple locations of the TV. This means that if you are in need of a quick use of component cable plug-ins (such as a video camera) they are easy to get to and provide a quick way of getting what you want on the big screen.

The most popular type of component cables are called RCA Cables which always consist of a male end that is color coordinated and has a copper ring around the input which provides flexibility and stability. Unlike HDMI Cables, the gauge of HDMI Cables is irrelevant to the quality that comes out. However, the quality of the cables is important as well. Consider the engineering of the cord and how it will be used. You don't want to send such thin RCA Cables through the attic that gets upwards of 140 degrees in the summer nor do you want to coil up 10 feet of RCA Cable behind your entertainment center.

While building your entertainment center, consider the priority of your video and audio devices and the capabilities of your TV, then measure out the length, gauge and quality of your prioritized cable needs and you will have gotten more out of your home entertainment center than you could have imagined.

What's the Difference Between HDMI Cables, Component Cables and RCA Cables?

Friday, July 20, 2012

HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?

HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?


HDMI or High Definition Multimedia Interface cable is the essential component for connecting HD devices. To HDMI cable can send all formats of digital video and audio. Before HDMI came along, you needed separate cables for audio and video. It can even handle content from an internet connection. This super cable can do it all, not to mention clean up the mess of cables you find behind your TV. You do not need dozens of confusing cables going in every direction; one HDMI cable is all you need.

HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?

HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?

HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?


HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?



HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?

To get the best possible High-Definition images you need to have all your home entertainment devices-TV, Blu-ray Player, Gaming Console, Cable Box connected together via a HDMI cable. Of course, all these devices have to be HD capable. Component cables will HD produces images (limited to 1080i), but then you will still need cables for you audio output. And two to AACS restrictions all Blu-ray Players manufactured after 2010 will only have 408i video output with component connections. HDMI is your best option.

Once the devices have been connected via HDMI, they have the ability to communicate with each other and read each others capabilities. For example, when a Blu-ray player is connected to a HDTV, a process occurs that will automatically configure settings like video resolution and aspect ratio to match the content being played to the highest capabilities of your HDTV.

Features Not Version Numbers

Since its introduction in 2002, HDMI specifications have continued to evolved. With each new version. in newset of features were added. Version 1.3 was launched in 2006 and 1.4 in 2009.

The new versions allowed manufacturers to incorporate the new features into their devices. However, just because a TV or Blu-ray Player is 1.4 capable, does not mean it has all the features the 1.4 cable is capable of performing. For example, a Blu-ray Player may have HDMI Ethernet channel and so it advertises the player as 1.4 capable. Some consumers may interpret the Blu-ray Player has 3D since 3D is a feature associated with the HDMI version 1.4. But that would not be correct. Using version numbers for HDMI cables can lead to confusion and mislead consumers.

Because of this, version numbers will eventually be phased out when referring to HDMI cables. Manufacturers can still usedthem until January 1, 2012, but must also include the specific features of their devices. All specifications are backward compatible with older devices. This is good news since you do not have to worry about new cables working with your older components.

What Cable Should I Get?

There are many different companies marketing HDMI cables. Some are good, others can be a little shady. Some will even mislead the consumer about what the cable is capable of doing and the advantages their cable has over the competition. This can cause the consumer to spend tens, even hundreds of dollars more than necessary. The consumer needs to realize expensive HDMI cables offer no advantages in image quality over the lesser or cheaper HDMI cables.

Thereare four types of HDMI cables. Standard Speed (also referred to as Category 1) cables with or without Ethernet and High Speed (also referred to as Category 2) cables with or without Ethernet. Standard Speed cables can carry up to 1080i video resolution and High Speed Cables well over 1080p video resolution. Standard cable can probably handle 1080p content but they are not stated to do so. However, if you are purchasing the right type of cable ", than there is not much difference in price when it comes to Standard and High Speed cables, so purchasing the latter should not be a problem.

By the "right type of cable, we mean ' as cheap as possible. No matter what you are told, when it comes to image quality, there is no difference betweenexpansive HDMI cables and cheap HDMI cables. The expensive cable maybe more durable and have a thicker casting or a beefier connector. But it would be up to you how much more you think this is worth. Most of us are just need a cable to connect our Blu-ray Player or Cable box to the TV. Over these short distances, a cheap HDMI cable will provide us with the best possible picture and sound. Even over longer distances, a cheap HDMI cable with function.

So when looking to buy a HDMI cable, make sure you are not paying more than $ 5 dollars for two meters. Otherwise you are overpaying. Also, do not confuse HDMI capabilities with that of your HD devices capabilities.

HDMI Cables-Which One Should I Buy?

Sunday, June 17, 2012

The Different Types Of Submersible Cables

The Different Types Of Submersible Cables


Powering a pump that is underwater requires submersible cables to connect from the power source to the pump itself. There are a few different wiring styles that can be used depending on the situation. The environments that call for wiring such as these include deep wells, dewatering tanks, pumps submerged in water depths of 500 meters and for areas that supply drinking water.

The Different Types Of Submersible Cables

The Different Types Of Submersible Cables

The Different Types Of Submersible Cables


The Different Types Of Submersible Cables



The Different Types Of Submersible Cables

PVC 3 core flat and 4 PVC flat styles are used in environments that have pumps that are submerged in deep well situations. They are comprised of 3 and 4 wires depending on the model. These styles of wiring are designed to be implanted into very hostile areas. Since the areas are so dangerous additional precautions are taken during manufacturing to ensure protection against grease, moisture,abrasion, oil and permitting for a long flex life.

3 PVC core round and round 4 PVC core wires are designed for areas that have a lot of sewage and other acidic qualities. They are available in 3 and 4 wires depending on the connection requirements of the pump unit. This style of cable is often used in dewatering pump applications. The design also provides protection against abrasion, acidic fluids and chemicals.

The 3 rubber and Rubber core 4 core flat models are designed for power supplies connected to submersible pumps down to 500 meters of depth. Constructed with oil and water resistant thermoplastic rubber provides adequate insulation. To protect the core insulation an additional heavy duty thermoplastic rubber is applied. The extra protection allows for protectionagainst surging water and friction from constant movement due to water fluctuations.

Like the flat version. the rubber 3 core and 4 core round rubber models also help prevent cuts and tears created from abrasions that can occur during time of use. The designs are weather resistant, impact resistant and also resistant to chemicals, oils and solvents. Depending on the pump location the round model could be a better option than the flat model.

The two kinds of AWG that are used consist of PVC and Rubber materials. The PVC model has the same qualities as others of its type. The added properties for this model are that it has excellent electrical properties and can is capable of passing up to 600 volts through it. This makes the model ideal for deep well pumps. The rubber versionof this model also can handle 600 volts of electricity. This model is more ideal for use in fresh or saltwater deeply submersed pumps.

The drincable is designed for drinking water supply areas. The model incorporates the same qualities as other models and is made of non toxic material and has the appearance of vulcanized rubber in its design. The insulation that is used water resistant EPDM based rubber and the sheath is constructed of black heavy duty EPDM rubber base providing protection against abrasions.

The Different Types Of Submersible Cables

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Troubleshooting your Cable Box

Troubleshooting your Cable Box


Unless you've recently moved from Alaska to Texas and you're feeling a little homesick, chances are that the last thing you want to see when you turn on your TV is snow. Combine a snowy Screen with that obnoxious, loud static sound, and you've got a problem on your hands. Fortunately you don't have to be techie to fix your cable box – just follow these simple troubleshooting steps to get picture back in no time.

Troubleshooting your Cable Box

Troubleshooting your Cable Box

Troubleshooting your Cable Box


Troubleshooting your Cable Box



Troubleshooting your Cable Box

Cable Box Basics

Make sure your cable box is plugged in. I know that sounds silly, but after troubleshooting these things over the phone professionally, you can trust me on this one. Save yourself the time and embarrassment of calling a professional just to have them tell you to plug it in. That goes for the rest of the essential equipment as well (i.e..TV, VCR or DVR if you're running the signal through one, etc.). It wouldn't hurt to make sure the TV is on the correct channel-usually channel 3 or 4 or one of the input channels.

Make sure thel the cables are connected. Even if you're TV and cable box are both turned on, you won't see a picture unless they are connected. Check each connection to ensure it is tight and that none of the wires or connecting pieces is damaged. Also check to see that the connections are all correct-meaning, video and audio should be going out of your cable or satellite box to your TV "in" ports. The signal should follow a logical path. If the connections are correct but you're still not seeing any picture, replacand the cables to see if that solves the problem. If you're runningthe signal through a DVR or VCR and having problems, skip the middle man and plug the cables straight from the box to the TV. If you get a picture you know you're problem is in the VCR.

After making sure everything is on and the cable connections are all correct, try rebooting your system. Each company's receivers have different methods of rebooting, but one fairly universal way is to unplug the box for 10 to 20 seconds and then plug it back in. Do not just turn the box off and back on again-you'll need to actually pull the plug out of the wall and then put it back in again. Once the cable box is plugged back in, turn the Power on and cross your fingers. If you're still not receiving any picture, unplug the receiver again for up to one minute and then plug it backin the. This may be tedious and time consuming, especially when you're missing the "fight of the year or the Super Bowl, but give it the full minute-you'll spend less time doing it yourself than you will waiting for a repairman to come out and fix it.

Fuzzy Picture or Sound

If you are getting a picture but no sound; or sound but no picture; or a fuzzy picture or sound, recheck the cable connections to make sure they are tightened, and that the wires or connecting pieces are undamaged. Poor picture or sound is typically caused by one of three problems: poor wire connections, signal interference, or TV settings.

Going outside to make sure nothing is interfering with your signal will help with the second problem. Of course, if you have underground cables there is notmuch you can do about making sure they are clear of interference (that's read, "Your neighbor cut through it while gardening"). If you have a satellite dish, know that excessive rain or snow buildup on the dish can cause signal interference. Use caution when checking your dish, especially if it is on your roof or some other hard-to-reach place around your house. The installer should have verified that no trees or other objects would interfere with your signal from the satellites, but take a quick look around to see if new foliage is blocking the signal. If it is not on your property, do not cut or remove anything without prior permission from the property owner.

Finally, adjusting your TV settings can help when you are receiving a clear signal and all the connections are fine.Horizontal and vertical settings are the adjustments that most often need to be made, but consulting your owner's manual can give you a better indication of other settings that can be tweaked.

Troubleshooting requires patience, so make some lemonade, roll up your sleeves, and get started. If none of these suggestions work (9 times out of 10 they will), contact your service provider. They may have additional troubleshooting steps or resources they can make available to you to get your cable or satellite TV up and running.

Troubleshooting your Cable Box

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations

Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations


A simplified summary of the specs for the most common categories in use today can help you determine what is right for you.

Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations

Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations

Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations


Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations



Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations

FREQUENCY-DISTANCE
Category 5-100 mbps-100 meters (328 feet)
Category 5e-1 Gigabit/sec-100 meters (328 feet)
Category 6-3 Gigabit/sec-100 meters (328 feet)
Category 6A-10 Gigabit/sec-100 meters (328 feet)

If you have very short runs, you may be able to use the cable at a lower rating than officially required. For example, on a 10 Gigabit application it is usually possible to go up to 35 meters on a Category 6 cable. Another possible application is a 30 foot run at Gigabit 3 on a Cat 5e cable which should work correctly because its such a short run. If you have the luxury of trying out short applications you may be able tooperate with cable rated at one lower category than the 100 meter rated cable for the required speed.

There are also considerations when the cable runs near Power lines or fluorescent lights where there is a possibility of increased crosstalk, that may have to be dealt with. In a well designed Data Center cable layout, there are often separate 4 layers of cables including copper cables, fiber cables, Power cables, and ground lines. Certain cable layouts have crosstalk considerations that can indicate the use of (ScTP) overall shielded pairs, or (STP) shielded pairs and overall shielding rather than (UTP) unshielded twisted pair cable.

Installation is also very important to make sure that the system supplies the standards that the componentsare designed to. Sloppy punch downs on the 110 Patch Panels may effect the system operation.

Also a Cat5E Jumper put serially into a system of Cat 6 cable components will bring the entire Cat 6 run down to a Cat 5e level or less.

Finally it is important to design the data system with the future requirements in mind. If the system will have to be upgraded in the foreseeable future to handle higher frequencies or longer runs or a combination of both, it is usually much more costly when the labor charges are taken into consideration to have to make any major changes. Therefore the level of cable should include the increased capability required in the future, on the initial installation.

Cat 5, 5E, 6, and 6A Cables-Distance and Speed Limitations

Saturday, February 4, 2012

CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6

CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6


CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6

CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6

CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6


CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6



CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6 CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Grommets Protect Wires, Cables and Hoses

Grommets Protect Wires, Cables and Hoses


One company offers a complete line of grommets manufactured in Rubber, PVC and TPR materials that are ideal for protecting wires, cables, and hoses that pass through standard sheet metal panels.

The entire product range is designed to fit standard panel holes ranging from 3/16" to 2-1/2" in imperial sizes and in the key metric sizes. These parts are designed to easily snap into the holes without any tools during installation. When selecting the proper part, one should consider the environment and exposure that the products will come in contact with. In most cases, these rubber parts will suit the typical application without a problem, but if the product will be exposed to chemicals, ozone or UV light, one should consider trying a TPR or PVC material. These products would be a better match for the application. In other cases, a plastic grommet or a nylon version can be utilized since they are also a stocked item. Beyond standard products, we offer numerous specialized styles including grommet sleeves, diaphragm grommets, International Protection Rating (IP67) grommets and edging grommets to meet the demands of the application and simplify the buying process by allowing one to consolidate with a single vendor.

These standard rubber products protect wires, cables, tubing and hoses and install instantly by snapping them into the hole. They have excellent adhesion and are designed to fit standard sheet metal holes. This product ranges is available in a wide variety of sizes to ensure quality protection for virtually any application.

Other options include International Protection Rating (IP67) parts that are ideal for external applications that require a watertight seal. These parts act as a blacking plug until the cable is instalLED. Diaphragm grommets are similar because they can be used as a blanking plug to conceal access holes until wires are instalLED. The design allows for multiple ranges of wires to pass through and the PVC material is non-staining, resistant to ozone, acids and sunlight and has excellent again qualities.

If one is looking for additional support and protection for cables or wires passing through panels, then opt for a sleeve. If the application requires protection for sharp or delicate edges then edging is the appropriate choice for the application.

All of these grommets are available in a variety of sizes and styles sure to suit one's needs. Whether wires need additional support and protection or a watertight seal is the focus, there is a stocked product to fit the application. With all of these products available to consumers through one vendor, it allows for one to multiply their purchasing Power by consolidating their buying needs.




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